February 3, 2023
Day 6: Canyoneering and Rappelling in the Lost Canyon and Swimming in the La Fortuna Waterfall
My alarm is set to go off at 5:45am, but I naturally awake around 5:30am. We are meeting extremely early this morning for what will be an action-packed day of adventure, and today is the day I’ve been most excited about. Today, we are going canyoning and rappelling down waterfalls! Our early departure from the hotel is due to an 8am trip time, so we load up in the bus immediately after breakfast and head into the jungle.
Getting there is an adventure in itself: we have to take a bus to a dirt road, and then a 4×4 truck to a remote outpost, where we will gear up for our adventure in the Lost Canyon. I’m unsure what exactly to expect since I’ve never done this type of thing before. We are outfitted in rappelling harnesses and helmets and issued leather gloves to wear for the trip, then shown how to control our descent speed using the ropes as we rappel into the canyon. After a short demonstration, we are off!
The hike begins with a walk through a tunnel of trees which is reminiscent of the “green tunnel” of the Appalachian Trail. We quickly reach the first rappel, a short 10ft drop. I’m toward the back of the group and enjoy watching as my fellow travelers drop into the canyon while waiting my turn. My first drop is a bit choppy, but I make it to the bottom with no issues and begin creek-walking to the next drop. I could walk in this creek all day and be perfectly happy– steep canyon walls covered in moss and foliage rise up on either side, the water is clear and cool, it’s absolutely breathtaking.
I reach the second rappel and get even more excited. This one is about 100ft, and includes a short “zip line” section at the end to cross the canyon to where we will continue the hike. It’s incredible to be descending down an actual waterfall, not just feeling the spray but actually in the falls itself. And then to fly through the air and land safely on the other side! Another small rappel is next, followed by the biggest of the day: a 200ft drop down a plunging falls to the creek far below.
I have never done any rappelling before so I was a bit nervous about this part of the adventure, but it 100% turned out to be my favorite activity of the trip. The guides from Desafio were phenomenal. We had several plus-size women on this trip and the guides went above and beyond to ensure that every woman was comfortable, safe, and accommodated with a harness.
Once we are beyond the final rappel, we have a creek-walk and then a 250-300ft climb to get back out of the canyon. I could have stayed in this creek all day and am sad to see the activity come to an end, but I’m ready for lunch! Desafio serves us lunch back at their base, and afterward Catalina takes us to a “secret local swimming hole” below the el Salto waterfall on the Rio Fortuna, where several members of our group take a jump into the clear blue water. Afterward, we are off to the next adventure: La Fortuna Waterfall.
This waterfall is one of the tallest in the country at over 230ft, and is a free-falling waterfall that plunges into a deep pool at the base. Reaching it requires descending 530 stairs to the base of the falls, and then climbing 530 stairs back up. The park is crowded, but I’m excited to see such a massive waterfall in person; I’m pretty sure it will be the tallest waterfall I have ever seen.
My group descends fairly quickly and reaches a viewing platform at the base. I take a few photos and decide that, no matter how cold the water is, I HAVE to swim here. When will I ever have this chance again? Decision made, I work my way through the crowds, out over the rocks, and into the turbulent water. I’m amazed and terrified at how violent the waves are, a testament of the force with which the water falling from the cliffs high above is hitting the pool that I’m now waist deep in. The water is frigid, but I gather my nerves and go on in, briefly swimming in the deep pool before the churning waves push me back onto the rocks. I can’t tolerate more than a few minutes in the water, and I exit the plunge pool feeling invigorated and a little shaky. Now for the 530 steps back up to the top!
Honestly, the number of steps is intimidating, but the climb back wasn’t really that bad. I took a few breaks to catch my breath and otherwise didn’t have any trouble with it. Back at the top, I pop into the little cantina attached to the park and order a drink and some ceviche to snack on, because I’ve worked up quite the appetite between the climbing and the adrenaline. Tonight we will head back to La Fortuna (the town) for another night at Arenal Montechiari hotel, where I take a nap before dinner and then head into town. We wander around La Fortuna for a bit and then head to Lava Lounge, a vibrant restaurant and bar with live music! I could have stayed here all night if I hadn’t been so tired, so after a dinner of fried yucca and fajitas, we all head back to the hotel.
Last night I nearly froze Bunny to death in our hotel room. Tonight, I’m asleep before she even makes it back to the room and she gets revenge by accidentally knocking the bedside lamp over onto my head and startling me awake! We both enjoy a good laugh before drifting back to sleep.
Adventure Like A Girl 